The 23rd was a day spent in travel. We woke up in an absolutely amazing hotel after we arrived at the hotel very late and basically just plopped right into bed.
The next day would consist of 9 hours of travelling on some of the most hair razing roads ever experienced. The route out from Marrakech was fairly straight forward for any small-town outskirts, think the section between the N2 and Stellenbosch past Spier. But in this case it never really ends. The landscapes are amazingly beautiful, it has a mix of karoo nothingness and yet there is feeling of activity, as if the flat lands are breathing in a way, heaving up and down.
Our journey was a 400-500km trip from Marrakech to Fes, but we quickly realised that travelling at 80km/h won’t get us there in 4 hours. 80kph is actually a relatively fast estimate. The roads are narrow, it’s the R44, with no shoulder, all the way. Intersections also don’t exist, there are numerous traffic circles which don’t really function as traffic circles, everyone merely uses the lanes in the same way as they would a normal road, skipping the left hand side and just opting for using the one side. There is no shoulder to speak of and the possibility for hitting any of the cyclists or mopeds on the side are quite high.
Yet strangely enough we never saw any accidents. Take into consideration that the roads are very narrow in comparison to South African (secondary) roads, the roads are also fairly high, so if you manage to get into the “gutter” you would probably stay in there, and there isn’t really a public roadworks service that I could see.
So I can only think two things: Either there are no crashes as if there were they would be evident by car wrecks on the side of the road (which there is ample space for), and these would not be towed away as the infrastructure isn’t that developed, or that they have a very good infrastructure, with tow-trucks coming out into the desert to come and fetch cars that have been written off. I didn’t see one single wreck along the side of the road. I’ll keep a look out for our way back…
Halfway through, at about 3h00 we started to get a bit hungry and asked our driver to pull over somewhere so that we can get a quick snack. Lucky for us we must have been close to what is similar to our Shell Ultra City’s. We pulled in and on our right a mini-market had been erected. We walked around a bit and decided to sit down at one of the stalls (they’re all a bit generic) while our driver decided to take over control. Lucky for us as we found out no one can speak English, the other predominant language in Morocco is French, which my sister has proven to be quite provicient in. The options we had were chips, a kilo (or half) of sheep and some water and coffee. Oh, and bread. It was delicious. The meat was succulent and bread nice and warm. The chips were fairly generic, it’s interesting that they serve these with a lot of the dishes at the roadstop, almost like we have. I ordered a Cafe Noir, which had a similar taste to our stove-top coffee, but without the bitter aftertaste. I would even say that it taste almost the same as moer koffie (don’t worry Niel, it doesn’t come close to yours!). The rest of the family had the first taste of green mint tea, which is sort of the official drink in Morocco. It’s a very sweet tea that they pour out into a glass cup, then pour back into the pot to mix up the sugar and taste. This they repeat once or twice before finally holding the pot very high and pouring the tea into the cup so that it makes froth.
We finished our meal which came to about 280 Dirrams, which is about R250. That is actually a rip off we later discovered and isn’t very surprising. The rest of our trip was another 4 hours away that we spent in the car, at 6h it became dark and we started to panic as the cars were now even closer to each other. Yet still no car wrecks. Maybe it’s because the cars can’t physically drive faster than 90kph. We arrived in our majestic new Riad, greeted by our guide and followed the thin alleys (which are just asking for an Urban Assualt!) to our hotel, Riad Fes.
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